With a view of the magnificent Taj I order breakfast on the roof top of my hotel in Agra.
"Sir, I'll have a stuffed paratha with curd and chai please."
"Yes madam. Paratha is chapati, you know chapati? Chapati with potato insice."
"Yes, I know." (This information would have been welcomed 3 months ago, but now after having eaten chapati every day for 12 weeks I find it irritating). "I'll have paratha please, and curd."
"Yes, yes, curd means yoghurt."
"Yes, yes. Thank you." I was afraid he would tell me chai meant tea next.
"Ok, madam. What would you like for breakfast?"
AHHHHH. I miss the Indians who just don't speak english. The cities are draining with the constant badgering from rickshaws, "tour guides" and vendors.
There is something to be said though to the fact that I seem to manage to shake them off far faster then fellow tourists, especially those that are new to India. It's a good feeling I guess, to know that I am recognized for knowing my way around and have confidence in my "no."
Friday, June 20, 2008
Welcome back to Delhi
I wake up and the sun is up. Everyone is moving. I ask and yes, we're finally in "Dilli."
I take my time gathering my pack and bag, adjusting my money belt, and making sure I am clear minded before I step off the bus. It's 5:15 am and I have 2 hours before the "Taj Express" leaves for Agra from the Hazrat Nizmuddin Train station. I want an auto rickshaw to get me there immediately. I want as much extra time to find my train as possible, because as I've learned extra time can quickly become no time in India. An auto approaches, I ask how much to the station. 150 rupees. A rip-off. Arman warned me not to pay more than 100 rps for this ride, and that is still a westerners' price. I'm not terribly keen on bargaining right now and I want to leave quickly.
"90" I say.
"No madam. 150. Very good price, 10 kilometers, good price."
The men that were on my bus gather around to haggle for me, but the driver insists on 150.
"90" I say again.
"Madam, 150, good morning price. Early, good morning price." He gestures around to the lack of people, as though his presence is fortunate enough.
"You're right." I smile, "Good morning price. Look, do you see any other tourists, westerners around? It's 5am. I walk away, you take Hindustani, 20 rupees. Or I stay you get 90."
"120, good price."
"90."
"Ok, 100 madam."
"90."
"Ok madam, 90."
I turn to my fellow bus passengers, they look impressed, I wink.
Victory! I just saved $1.50
Now I'm at the station with a blessed stress free hour to kill with some nourishment (I hadn't eaten dinner) and chai (I didn't really sleep). In 4 hours I'll be in Agra, home to the Taj Mahal. I'm so excited. I love traveling by myself!
Though I have to admit, when I woke up on the bus I expected to find Arman next to me, ready for our next adventure.
I take my time gathering my pack and bag, adjusting my money belt, and making sure I am clear minded before I step off the bus. It's 5:15 am and I have 2 hours before the "Taj Express" leaves for Agra from the Hazrat Nizmuddin Train station. I want an auto rickshaw to get me there immediately. I want as much extra time to find my train as possible, because as I've learned extra time can quickly become no time in India. An auto approaches, I ask how much to the station. 150 rupees. A rip-off. Arman warned me not to pay more than 100 rps for this ride, and that is still a westerners' price. I'm not terribly keen on bargaining right now and I want to leave quickly.
"90" I say.
"No madam. 150. Very good price, 10 kilometers, good price."
The men that were on my bus gather around to haggle for me, but the driver insists on 150.
"90" I say again.
"Madam, 150, good morning price. Early, good morning price." He gestures around to the lack of people, as though his presence is fortunate enough.
"You're right." I smile, "Good morning price. Look, do you see any other tourists, westerners around? It's 5am. I walk away, you take Hindustani, 20 rupees. Or I stay you get 90."
"120, good price."
"90."
"Ok, 100 madam."
"90."
"Ok madam, 90."
I turn to my fellow bus passengers, they look impressed, I wink.
Victory! I just saved $1.50
Now I'm at the station with a blessed stress free hour to kill with some nourishment (I hadn't eaten dinner) and chai (I didn't really sleep). In 4 hours I'll be in Agra, home to the Taj Mahal. I'm so excited. I love traveling by myself!
Though I have to admit, when I woke up on the bus I expected to find Arman next to me, ready for our next adventure.
Valley of Flowers
June 13th.
I find my inspiration to write from the flies.
The valley is beautiful, the flowers are gorgeous. The diversity of flies is really quite amazing.
Mana called to my environmentalist nature, the grandeur and remoteness evoked questions of climate change and such. Here in the Valley of Flowers, though I am still surrounded by mountains, glaciers, and waterfalls, it is each unique and completely endemic species I am witnessing that draws my attention, calling to my inner ecologist :)
The flies represent the many needed pollinators to complete the grand task of ensuring that each year the valley will maintain UNESCO World Heritage status for its carpets of wild flowers.
I find my inspiration to write from the flies.
The valley is beautiful, the flowers are gorgeous. The diversity of flies is really quite amazing.
Mana called to my environmentalist nature, the grandeur and remoteness evoked questions of climate change and such. Here in the Valley of Flowers, though I am still surrounded by mountains, glaciers, and waterfalls, it is each unique and completely endemic species I am witnessing that draws my attention, calling to my inner ecologist :)
The flies represent the many needed pollinators to complete the grand task of ensuring that each year the valley will maintain UNESCO World Heritage status for its carpets of wild flowers.
climate change and more...
June 11th.
What seems like an eternal supply of water pours down 400ft in 2 waterfalls behind me. The river passes swiftly below me, channeling between the mountains, fed by various glaciers.
The sheer size and immensity of this landscape, the cliffs, peaks, valleys, meadows, makes it feel endless, infinite. Yet I wonder, how much larger were these glaciers 50 years ago? How much louder were these waterfalls?
We've hiked past Mana, the last human habitation on this route north into Uttarakhand. Here we are in true wilderness. From this point north it is only mountains and what ever biodiversity has found ways to survive this harsh habitat. 60km north is the Chinese/Tibet border.
Yet despite the lack of human existence I can't help questions, what this ecosystem will experience in the next 50 years, 100years. Human presence is no longer physically required to impact the last remaining places we call wilderness on our, now, small Earth. Creating parks and building fences can no longer provide relief. So... now what?
Lately, I've been saying I'm fed up with the USA. I'm ready for a break from the society, politics and I'm tired of how the US is being run. I feel I could easily move somewhere in Europe. But if I'm fed up with how the Earth is being managed I can't just pack up and move...
So I'm here. And ready to make a difference, or at least try. Where do I start?
What seems like an eternal supply of water pours down 400ft in 2 waterfalls behind me. The river passes swiftly below me, channeling between the mountains, fed by various glaciers.
The sheer size and immensity of this landscape, the cliffs, peaks, valleys, meadows, makes it feel endless, infinite. Yet I wonder, how much larger were these glaciers 50 years ago? How much louder were these waterfalls?
We've hiked past Mana, the last human habitation on this route north into Uttarakhand. Here we are in true wilderness. From this point north it is only mountains and what ever biodiversity has found ways to survive this harsh habitat. 60km north is the Chinese/Tibet border.
Yet despite the lack of human existence I can't help questions, what this ecosystem will experience in the next 50 years, 100years. Human presence is no longer physically required to impact the last remaining places we call wilderness on our, now, small Earth. Creating parks and building fences can no longer provide relief. So... now what?
Lately, I've been saying I'm fed up with the USA. I'm ready for a break from the society, politics and I'm tired of how the US is being run. I feel I could easily move somewhere in Europe. But if I'm fed up with how the Earth is being managed I can't just pack up and move...
So I'm here. And ready to make a difference, or at least try. Where do I start?
Mana
Wow, wow, wooooowwww.
I...
it's...
um.
alright, it's indescribable. Tacky, but true.
I'm in a National Geographic film. I'm on an expedition except without the expedition. It's like I'm on the front cover...
The most I can do to describe where I am is to show pictures, but I don't think they do justice.
These are BFM (Big F***ing Mountains) and I'm in them, in the northern most village, Mana, at the end of the road (literally), in a homestay with the village leader who is one of the coolest, most hospitable men I've ever met.
I'm next to mountain glaciers, rivers, incredible peaks, fields of medicinal herbs, waterfalls...
I'm at 11,000ft elevation.
It took me 2 full days of buses and shared jeeps to get to Badrinath, then we walked the last 3km into Mana.
I could easily be in northern Nepal or Tibet.
I don't think there is anywhere more beautiful in India.
I must say, I am quite proud of myself for my travel plans. And eternally grateful to Ashish for arranging for me to stay with Pitambar.
I...
it's...
um.
alright, it's indescribable. Tacky, but true.
I'm in a National Geographic film. I'm on an expedition except without the expedition. It's like I'm on the front cover...
The most I can do to describe where I am is to show pictures, but I don't think they do justice.
These are BFM (Big F***ing Mountains) and I'm in them, in the northern most village, Mana, at the end of the road (literally), in a homestay with the village leader who is one of the coolest, most hospitable men I've ever met.
I'm next to mountain glaciers, rivers, incredible peaks, fields of medicinal herbs, waterfalls...
I'm at 11,000ft elevation.
It took me 2 full days of buses and shared jeeps to get to Badrinath, then we walked the last 3km into Mana.
I could easily be in northern Nepal or Tibet.
I don't think there is anywhere more beautiful in India.
I must say, I am quite proud of myself for my travel plans. And eternally grateful to Ashish for arranging for me to stay with Pitambar.
Road-side Entertainment
I haven't seen a single proper speed limit sign in India in the past 3 months, however I've thoroughly enjoyed their signs to encourage safe driving...
They always provide a smile on long rides.
(Any typos are original, not mine)
"Speed thrills, but kills."
"Sink zone ahead, DDRIVE CAUTIOUSLY" (what's a sink zone?)
"Your care is appreciciciated."
"Drink and drive, dangerous cocktail."
"Drinking whiskey is risky."
"Better late than never."
"Thanks."
"BRO wishes you a safe drive." (BRO = Border and Road Organization, but it's funnier when you don't know this.)
"If married, divorce speed."
"Speed slowly."
"Life is Journey, Complete it."
"Safety Saves."
"Use your head or lose your head, where a helmet."
They always provide a smile on long rides.
(Any typos are original, not mine)
"Speed thrills, but kills."
"Sink zone ahead, DDRIVE CAUTIOUSLY" (what's a sink zone?)
"Your care is appreciciciated."
"Drink and drive, dangerous cocktail."
"Drinking whiskey is risky."
"Better late than never."
"Thanks."
"BRO wishes you a safe drive." (BRO = Border and Road Organization, but it's funnier when you don't know this.)
"If married, divorce speed."
"Speed slowly."
"Life is Journey, Complete it."
"Safety Saves."
"Use your head or lose your head, where a helmet."
Travels
So a lot has happened in the last 2 weeks of travel. I'm not going to attempt to catch up with them here, but enter a couple of my journal entries. You'll just have to come to my fund raising dinner to here more stories in July...
But the schedule has been:
2 days to get up to Mana/Badrinath.
1 day in Mana
1 day to get to Gangria via 13km trek from Govingat
1 day to see Valley of Flowers
2 days walking/busing to get to Rishikesh (including sleeping in Sikh Gudwara for the night)
2 nights/days in Rishikesh resting b/c of bad cold
Evening in Haridwar with a crazy motorcycle ride through the city.
Night bus to Delhi- Morning train to Agra.
1 night in Agra, saw Taj Mahal in the morning, bus to Jaipur in the afternoon.
Now 4 nights in Jaipur to provide:
rest, shopping, mani/pedicure, facial, henna, and a day trip to Pushkar.
Then I bus back to Delhi on the 23rd for my flight that night.
But the schedule has been:
2 days to get up to Mana/Badrinath.
1 day in Mana
1 day to get to Gangria via 13km trek from Govingat
1 day to see Valley of Flowers
2 days walking/busing to get to Rishikesh (including sleeping in Sikh Gudwara for the night)
2 nights/days in Rishikesh resting b/c of bad cold
Evening in Haridwar with a crazy motorcycle ride through the city.
Night bus to Delhi- Morning train to Agra.
1 night in Agra, saw Taj Mahal in the morning, bus to Jaipur in the afternoon.
Now 4 nights in Jaipur to provide:
rest, shopping, mani/pedicure, facial, henna, and a day trip to Pushkar.
Then I bus back to Delhi on the 23rd for my flight that night.
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