I'm trying to upload some photos from Corbett but it's really difficult with the connection and the amount of time I have online.
Here's what is up so far...
http://picasaweb.google.co.in/ZyanyaKB/CorbettNationalPark
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Reflections and such.
April 19, 2008
This trip is giving me so much time to think, perhaps too much. It’s not that we aren’t doing anything but a lot of time is spent waiting, in discussion, or in reflection. Our weekly assignment is a 3-page paper reflecting on our readings, class time, and what we experience here, all pertaining to sustainable development. For me this is particularly pertinent since sustainable development is the focus for my life’s career and goals. Constantly thinking about the realities and uncertainties of sustainable development is meaningful and exhausting.
Last week we sat down with the original founder of CHIRAG (the organization we are working with), Kanai-Ji. He is 83 and sharper than me. One of the most incredible souls I have ever met. He told us about starting the organization, his challenges, and his view of development. His accomplishments in life shine through his contentedness and comfort in old age. I aspire to be as knowing and hospitable as him and his wife at their age.
====
I’ve also been reflecting on how I value friendship. I’m remembering how much shared experiences mean. It’s the accumulation of those moments that builds a friendship, whether through stories shared or actual events. And more importantly, how the friendship supports each individual to be happy and grow. One friend’s mistake is another one’s lesson. What one admires about the other encourages them to achieve. Differences in opinion make each re-examine self-principles and ideas.
It is not necessary to see eye-to-eye on all topics, but simply to respect each other for those differences. In fact, I believe the strongest friendships can come from people with many differences. It is someone you can connect with despite these differences that cultivates a true friendship.
====
So besides Corbett National Park here’s what’s happened in the past 2 weeks:
2 weekends ago I went to the nearest city, Nainital, with Amity and David. The whole group went for the day but they opted to pay jeeps to take them. The three of us decided we would rather take the local bus and stay the night. So we waited up at the road at 7:30am and hopped on the 2.5 hour bus to Biwali. From there we took a 30 minute ride to Nainital. It’s a cute city on a lake about the size of Lake Union. It vaguely resembles a Swiss town with the city on the lake and the mountains behind it. We spent a while walking around with our packs to find the best deal for a room. We settled on a room for 300 rupees/night for the 3 of us. So about $7.25 total for all three of us. It was a nice place too. We were really excited about having a TV with cable, a proper shower (we take bucket baths here), and room service! We had fun exploring the city and market. There was a protest going on by a group of Tibetan refugees that have market stalls there, which was really interesting and touching to see. Staring at a large photograph of the Dalai Lama in Northern India, while knowing he is speaking at the UW, was a little surreal. The next day we enjoyed a boat ride around the lake and took the bus back to Sonopani. It was definitely a bit of an adventure and a nice chance to get out on our own a little, away from the group, and feel a bit independent. I think the 3 of us, in particular, needed that. Everyone else seemed very happy to take a private vehicle and spend 4 hours in town.
Otherwise, we’ve been following the schedule of classes during the day at CHIRAG, and afternoons to study and relax. (Because life sounds really stressful here, right?)
We’ve been discussing our research projects for May, and I think I’ve decided to do research with the Women’s self help groups here. I’ll be interviewing women when they meet in their local groups once/month to ask questions related to when they seek out health care in their very busy lives of constantly working. Most of the women here do not even feed themselves 3 meals a day, and are chronically dehydrated because they do not carry water with them when they work in the forests collecting wood, fodder, and leaves for compost. Of the few medical facilities available, most doctors are men, making it more difficult for women to face seeking help. I’m excited to start meeting the women and hear their stories, I think it will be really interesting, culturally and personally.
And lastly, an exciting opportunity has presented itself to me. A couple nights ago two women who are living nearby and working for another nearby NGO came to Sonopani for dinner. Once is a doctor from New Orleans of Indian heritage, the other is an Indian teacher. The woman from New Orleans is a Salsa dancer. The two of them have been discussing teaching the children (ages 9-12) at the school Salsa as a way to break down some gender barriers, and foster a different relationship between the students. So they asked if I could teach them how to lead and follow, and how to teach it. In return the teacher, who is trained in classical Indian and Punjab dance, will teach us. Plus, in the end of May the NGO is planning a festival and they want to perform an Indian dance which they want me to participate in, as a way to bridge the gap between the two NGO’s. (And maybe even do a Salsa number.) I’m excited, we start tomorrow night!
This trip is giving me so much time to think, perhaps too much. It’s not that we aren’t doing anything but a lot of time is spent waiting, in discussion, or in reflection. Our weekly assignment is a 3-page paper reflecting on our readings, class time, and what we experience here, all pertaining to sustainable development. For me this is particularly pertinent since sustainable development is the focus for my life’s career and goals. Constantly thinking about the realities and uncertainties of sustainable development is meaningful and exhausting.
Last week we sat down with the original founder of CHIRAG (the organization we are working with), Kanai-Ji. He is 83 and sharper than me. One of the most incredible souls I have ever met. He told us about starting the organization, his challenges, and his view of development. His accomplishments in life shine through his contentedness and comfort in old age. I aspire to be as knowing and hospitable as him and his wife at their age.
====
I’ve also been reflecting on how I value friendship. I’m remembering how much shared experiences mean. It’s the accumulation of those moments that builds a friendship, whether through stories shared or actual events. And more importantly, how the friendship supports each individual to be happy and grow. One friend’s mistake is another one’s lesson. What one admires about the other encourages them to achieve. Differences in opinion make each re-examine self-principles and ideas.
It is not necessary to see eye-to-eye on all topics, but simply to respect each other for those differences. In fact, I believe the strongest friendships can come from people with many differences. It is someone you can connect with despite these differences that cultivates a true friendship.
====
So besides Corbett National Park here’s what’s happened in the past 2 weeks:
2 weekends ago I went to the nearest city, Nainital, with Amity and David. The whole group went for the day but they opted to pay jeeps to take them. The three of us decided we would rather take the local bus and stay the night. So we waited up at the road at 7:30am and hopped on the 2.5 hour bus to Biwali. From there we took a 30 minute ride to Nainital. It’s a cute city on a lake about the size of Lake Union. It vaguely resembles a Swiss town with the city on the lake and the mountains behind it. We spent a while walking around with our packs to find the best deal for a room. We settled on a room for 300 rupees/night for the 3 of us. So about $7.25 total for all three of us. It was a nice place too. We were really excited about having a TV with cable, a proper shower (we take bucket baths here), and room service! We had fun exploring the city and market. There was a protest going on by a group of Tibetan refugees that have market stalls there, which was really interesting and touching to see. Staring at a large photograph of the Dalai Lama in Northern India, while knowing he is speaking at the UW, was a little surreal. The next day we enjoyed a boat ride around the lake and took the bus back to Sonopani. It was definitely a bit of an adventure and a nice chance to get out on our own a little, away from the group, and feel a bit independent. I think the 3 of us, in particular, needed that. Everyone else seemed very happy to take a private vehicle and spend 4 hours in town.
Otherwise, we’ve been following the schedule of classes during the day at CHIRAG, and afternoons to study and relax. (Because life sounds really stressful here, right?)
We’ve been discussing our research projects for May, and I think I’ve decided to do research with the Women’s self help groups here. I’ll be interviewing women when they meet in their local groups once/month to ask questions related to when they seek out health care in their very busy lives of constantly working. Most of the women here do not even feed themselves 3 meals a day, and are chronically dehydrated because they do not carry water with them when they work in the forests collecting wood, fodder, and leaves for compost. Of the few medical facilities available, most doctors are men, making it more difficult for women to face seeking help. I’m excited to start meeting the women and hear their stories, I think it will be really interesting, culturally and personally.
And lastly, an exciting opportunity has presented itself to me. A couple nights ago two women who are living nearby and working for another nearby NGO came to Sonopani for dinner. Once is a doctor from New Orleans of Indian heritage, the other is an Indian teacher. The woman from New Orleans is a Salsa dancer. The two of them have been discussing teaching the children (ages 9-12) at the school Salsa as a way to break down some gender barriers, and foster a different relationship between the students. So they asked if I could teach them how to lead and follow, and how to teach it. In return the teacher, who is trained in classical Indian and Punjab dance, will teach us. Plus, in the end of May the NGO is planning a festival and they want to perform an Indian dance which they want me to participate in, as a way to bridge the gap between the two NGO’s. (And maybe even do a Salsa number.) I’m excited, we start tomorrow night!
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Elephants, Tigers, and… Hanibus? Oh my.
Wednesday, April 16th, 2008
I’ve been waiting to write my next blog in anticipation of something exciting to tell about, however in the last several days things have built p and now I feel I have too much to write. But first, let me begin with the setting of where this entry is being written…
I am sitting approximately 80ft up on a watchtower in the middle of Corbett National Park. It’s 11am and already about 85-90 degrees F, though there’s a breeze. I was dropped here at 10:30am and will not be able to be picked up until 3pm due to park restrictions of automobile travel. No walking is allowed in the park so I must remain in the tower.
But don’t misunderstand me, I’m not complaining. This was my idea. (And yes Mother, I’m wearing sunscreen.)
Corbett National Park is an incredible sanctuary with large expanses of grassland and river flats greatly resembling the African Serengeti and forest that makes you feel you’ve been inserted into the story line of he Jungle Book. Plus the highest density of tigers in India (approximately 164 individuals currently).
We arrived yesterday afternoon. We took a 2-hr jeep ride at sunset and this morning at 5:45am. We didn’t see any tigers but we did see several species of deer, elephants a multidude of birds and raptors, and more. The different habitat types within the park are diverse.
(11:46am, Just spotted a tiger in the river taking a dip!)
The compound we are staying in is an area of about 5 city blocks surrounded by electric fencing. It consists of tourist housing, rangers housing, a first aid clinic, a restaurant, and the elephant’s barn. This morning after breakfast I was speaking with a ranger and he mentioned the possibility of going to the watchtower. I decided the prospect of a spectacular view, quiet, time to write, and the possibility of seeing a tiger sounded fantastic and told my group I was going I was pleasantly surprised when two, Pax and Vania, wanted to come as well, and welcomed the company.
We were dropped off and climbed the 4 rickety ladders to the top. The view is incredible, we have elephants foraging to the west, a watering hole to the south, and the river with a tiger bathing in it to the east. We were disappointed at first to find a rowdy group of Indian men arriving only to sit and play cards, loudly, without even looking around. What’s the point of being up in a watchtower, right?
But an amazing opportunity arrived when another jeep pulled up before 11am. Two tiger program officers from the World Wildlife Fund in D.C. and their guide, an Indian wildlife conservationist climbed up the tower and the guide promptly told the men, in Hindi, to shut-up if they were there to see tigers or leave if they weren’t. They quieted down.
Over the past couple hours I’ve gotten to know Shannon and Bernie of the WWF and their guide, Rajiv. It’s always exciting for me to meet people who have the careers I am perusing. I’ve exchanged contact info and I’m thinking about the opportunity to volunteer in a park in India to improve eco-tourism resources.
(1pm, 2nd tiger sighting, in similar area, bathing in the river. Definitely a male, he has a huge head and must be at least 7ft long)
Our time in the tower is almost over. We’ve seen 2 tigers at a distance bating in the river and a herd of 10 elephants with several babies came to drink at the watering hole just next door. I don’t want to descend, I could happily spend the night up here.
Well, I guess I passed the time without getting to the other things I wanted to cover for my blog. I’ll have to write another entry once I return to Sonopani.
--------- ---------
April 17th: As for the rest of my time in Corbett…
That evening we went out in the jeep again and saw another tiger. He was a juvenile, abot 2-3 years old, 5 ft long. We spotted him walking through the forest, absolutely stunning.
Our last morning I got to ride on an elephant through the river flats. We didn’t spot any more tigers but it was beautiful and a really cool experience.
As for the title of this entry: Corbett National Park is filled with fields of marijuana plants, it's every where. It grows like a, believe it or not, weed. It's bizarre to see something that is both extremely revered and spurned in the US just growing naturally all over the place.
I’ve been waiting to write my next blog in anticipation of something exciting to tell about, however in the last several days things have built p and now I feel I have too much to write. But first, let me begin with the setting of where this entry is being written…
I am sitting approximately 80ft up on a watchtower in the middle of Corbett National Park. It’s 11am and already about 85-90 degrees F, though there’s a breeze. I was dropped here at 10:30am and will not be able to be picked up until 3pm due to park restrictions of automobile travel. No walking is allowed in the park so I must remain in the tower.
But don’t misunderstand me, I’m not complaining. This was my idea. (And yes Mother, I’m wearing sunscreen.)
Corbett National Park is an incredible sanctuary with large expanses of grassland and river flats greatly resembling the African Serengeti and forest that makes you feel you’ve been inserted into the story line of he Jungle Book. Plus the highest density of tigers in India (approximately 164 individuals currently).
We arrived yesterday afternoon. We took a 2-hr jeep ride at sunset and this morning at 5:45am. We didn’t see any tigers but we did see several species of deer, elephants a multidude of birds and raptors, and more. The different habitat types within the park are diverse.
(11:46am, Just spotted a tiger in the river taking a dip!)
The compound we are staying in is an area of about 5 city blocks surrounded by electric fencing. It consists of tourist housing, rangers housing, a first aid clinic, a restaurant, and the elephant’s barn. This morning after breakfast I was speaking with a ranger and he mentioned the possibility of going to the watchtower. I decided the prospect of a spectacular view, quiet, time to write, and the possibility of seeing a tiger sounded fantastic and told my group I was going I was pleasantly surprised when two, Pax and Vania, wanted to come as well, and welcomed the company.
We were dropped off and climbed the 4 rickety ladders to the top. The view is incredible, we have elephants foraging to the west, a watering hole to the south, and the river with a tiger bathing in it to the east. We were disappointed at first to find a rowdy group of Indian men arriving only to sit and play cards, loudly, without even looking around. What’s the point of being up in a watchtower, right?
But an amazing opportunity arrived when another jeep pulled up before 11am. Two tiger program officers from the World Wildlife Fund in D.C. and their guide, an Indian wildlife conservationist climbed up the tower and the guide promptly told the men, in Hindi, to shut-up if they were there to see tigers or leave if they weren’t. They quieted down.
Over the past couple hours I’ve gotten to know Shannon and Bernie of the WWF and their guide, Rajiv. It’s always exciting for me to meet people who have the careers I am perusing. I’ve exchanged contact info and I’m thinking about the opportunity to volunteer in a park in India to improve eco-tourism resources.
(1pm, 2nd tiger sighting, in similar area, bathing in the river. Definitely a male, he has a huge head and must be at least 7ft long)
Our time in the tower is almost over. We’ve seen 2 tigers at a distance bating in the river and a herd of 10 elephants with several babies came to drink at the watering hole just next door. I don’t want to descend, I could happily spend the night up here.
Well, I guess I passed the time without getting to the other things I wanted to cover for my blog. I’ll have to write another entry once I return to Sonopani.
--------- ---------
April 17th: As for the rest of my time in Corbett…
That evening we went out in the jeep again and saw another tiger. He was a juvenile, abot 2-3 years old, 5 ft long. We spotted him walking through the forest, absolutely stunning.
Our last morning I got to ride on an elephant through the river flats. We didn’t spot any more tigers but it was beautiful and a really cool experience.
As for the title of this entry: Corbett National Park is filled with fields of marijuana plants, it's every where. It grows like a, believe it or not, weed. It's bizarre to see something that is both extremely revered and spurned in the US just growing naturally all over the place.
Saturday, April 5, 2008
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Train Stations in India are...
March 30th. 5pm
Sonopani is wonderful. It’s a property with 12 modest sized “cabins” for guests. To my surprise and excitement, each cabin has a private bathroom, with fully capable toilets (i.e. Toilet paper is used and provided!). The food is amazing. We’ve spent one relaxing day here of doing nothing but resting and eating. The view is spectacular and the weather ideal. Tomorrow we will continue to settle in (we have several students who are feeling slightly ill), begin to learn Hindi, and explore our surroundings by hiking the area. Right now it’s easy to forget we are in India (with the exception of the Himalayas looming in the background), we are being spoiled. I look forward to begin work with the NGO when we will start meeting the community and having weekend home stays.
Water bottles and chains for your luggage are the top commodities for sale. Everyone looks as though they’ve been waiting for their train for ages, even if they’ve just arrived.
People sleeping on filthy concrete along what seem like mile long platforms. It smells like piss. Children walk along the tracks rummaging through garbage, seemingly ignorant to the arrival of trains. All ranks of society are here; business men and women waiting for their 1st class AC coach to arrive, the homeless taking shelter from the pollution and dangers of the streets, families spread on a blanket, waiting. Yet, despite what seems like stagnant mayhem, these stations function, like everything else in India, with a different capability.
We rode 2ndsleeper-class AC. I found my upper bunk, #18. A thin platform with sheets and pillow provided. I padlocked/chained my bag below me, climbed up and slept wearing my money belt and hugging my daypack, containing my laptop, camera, and iPod. The train’s toilet technically provides the only fresh air, as the toilet is simply a metal basin opening to the rails below. We left congested, humid Delhi at 10:40pm and arrived at 6:00am in the mountains. A 2.5 hour car ride brought us through quickly approached switchbacks and oncoming traffic, amongst villages and forest. As the road turned to dirt we rounded a bend to reveal the spectacular view of the sharp, white peaks of the Himalayas towering in the distance. We walked a final 20 minutes down a path to Sonopani, our new home for the next 10 weeks.
-------------------------------------------
Much of the drive here reminded me of the Quilotoa region of Ecuador. The sloping farms and small towns, the people walking between work and home along the road. The larger houses dotting the landscape owned by the wealthy of Delhi as weekend retreats from the city heat resemble the haciendas. Small Hindu shrines and temples frequent the road, similar to the miniature churches so common throughout Latin America, representing the constant and essential presence of religion in their society. There is no abject poverty here, nor there. Am I drawing these inferences because this is the culture I am most familiar with? Or is there something to these observations? My group is constantly hearing me make comparisons and talk about experiences in Costa Rica, Guatemala, or Ecuador. Even in Delhi I noticed many similarities to Latin culture. The way the men dress and stare, the way the women walk together. However, the similarities stop at social interactions. Indians and Latinos are extremely different in personality. How does climate and geography contribute to cultural similarities? I’m sure the natives of Rajasthan would not impress upon me such comparisons. Could these similarities in rural settings allow for development policies and plans to be replicated between societies, or are the cultural differences too great to permit such generalization? Can culture be categorized by geography and societal structure, instead of solely ethnic heritage? (i.e. Can we develop similar standards between the nomads of Rajasthan and Somalia, and the indigenous of Papua New Guinea and the Amazon?)
Sonopani is wonderful. It’s a property with 12 modest sized “cabins” for guests. To my surprise and excitement, each cabin has a private bathroom, with fully capable toilets (i.e. Toilet paper is used and provided!). The food is amazing. We’ve spent one relaxing day here of doing nothing but resting and eating. The view is spectacular and the weather ideal. Tomorrow we will continue to settle in (we have several students who are feeling slightly ill), begin to learn Hindi, and explore our surroundings by hiking the area. Right now it’s easy to forget we are in India (with the exception of the Himalayas looming in the background), we are being spoiled. I look forward to begin work with the NGO when we will start meeting the community and having weekend home stays.
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