A good day in the city.

February 28th, 2010

I found my way south (after S-21), walking without any particular goal, eventually ending up at a large market that was closing up for the day. I passed through a large wat with many families relaxing in the shade and children playing. One boy picked up a cassette tape from the ground and began pulling out the tape like a streamer. Wait, a cassette tape? Do they still make those?

It’s Sunday and I get the impression it’s a family day, a time to relax and spend time with loved ones. Last night I walked to the Sovanna Phum theater, to see a shadow puppet show. Along the way it seemed everyone was out to eat. I passed a block where every restaurant served hot pot. There were families and groups of friends crowded around the little tables. Tons of teens zipped passed me on their motorbikes, laughing and yelling. Just from my first night I got a really positive feeling about the city and people of Phnom Phen.

I heard from some travelers that PP had intense begging and tuk-tuk drivers always hassling you. But I’m staying about 2km away from the tourist center and I don’t think there are many beggars at all in the rest of the city. There are some downtown, but unfortunately that is to be expected in any major city. And every single tuk-tuk or moto driver I have encountered leaves me alone after a single shake of my head.

So after I wandered around the market, absorbing the hundreds of very foreign smells and enjoying an apple (from Washington!), I got a motorcycle to take me north to the night market, perhaps there would be some craft shopping.

It became apparent my driver didn’t understand where I wanted to go when he tried to let me off much too soon. We continued, driving along a southern part of the river I hadn’t been to yet. I noticed a lot of activity ahead, balloon vendors, a pagoda, and was that music? I let the driver drop me there.

I observed a large group of people, almost entirely women, who were crowding into a tiny devotional pagoda to place candles and incense. It was so refreshing to have some live music playing. There was a traditional band set up on a small stage. I enjoyed the sunset there as the sun fell below the royal palace and spoke to two young monks for a while.

I started to walk down the river-side promenade. Phnom Phen has done a wonderful job of creating this public space where families, friends, and couples can come enjoy themselves, it reminds me of a more busy version of the Malecon in Havana. There are vendors selling drinks and toys for children, it’s like having a fair every Sunday. Suddenly music erupts from where I just passed. Not traditional music, pop music! It’s Western music hits that have been recreated in what I assume is Thai. I look around and realize I’ve passed two huge speakers that were just turned on. Around them stand several teenage boys who are wearing clothes to stand out and exercise arm-bands and headbands. They look straight out of the 80s, one guy is wearing tight pink jeans and calmly rolling up his sleeves. Could it be? Are they some hip-hop or break dance group that is about to start dancing? That would be amazing!

It turns out to be something even more entertaining… In the next 5 minutes people of all ages, though mostly older, walk into the open area and line up. The guy in the pink jeans has put on a headset mic and begins to lead everyone in “dance-aerobics,” that is if you can call it dancing or aerobics. The steps are simple but rhythmic and everyone follows him as he changes the patterns between lifting legs and arms to cross-stepping side to side to box steps to lunges. I couldn’t help myself, I had the biggest smile on my face. It was so much fun to watch and hear the music. The group provided just the comedic relief I needed for the end of the day and I also admired all of these men and women who were enthusiastically flailing their arms and legs, each with their own smile. If I didn’t have my bag with me I may have joined in. The leader saw me watching and said over the mic, “you want to exercise with us?” No, I shook my head, “maybe tomorrow!” It’s wonderful that people don’t feel too self-conscious to exercise in public like this. At home I know people that are too self-conscious to join a professional aerobics class because of the mirror. Here there was an entire group surrounding the “dancers,” watching them. I observed for at least half-an-hour, taking in each personality that was there for their daily exercise. Some were more energetic than others. Some (most) didn’t raise their arms fully over their heads, not willing to fully straighten the elbow. Some wore exercise clothes, some wore pajamas. Some were young and some very old. But everyone seemed to be genuinely enjoying themselves, not concerned if they were “doing it right” or burning enough calories, they seemed to just be enjoying the movement and music. Eventually I moved on, heading towards the night market. Getting to watch the exercise class really made my day, and made me a little homesick for my dance community in Seattle.